Vonjet Frame assembly - attempt #2

Working on the vonjet frame assembly...  Which essentially is the combination of the outer and inner frame / panel parts to form 1 single assembly system.

What this means is:
Rigidity is increased
Easier to take apart
use of magnets for easy removal of panels

The downside is the warping of the parts if you cannot get the first layer to remain on the bed due to large print areas.

So...

I had Bryan print the triangle pieces for me while I work on the prints of the 6 panels...

Printing the weighted flywheel

Been posting most work on Facebook.... however starting to fill in the gaps here.

This is the flywheel assembly which replaces the battery harness which was used for the counter weight.

Assembly Day 2: The drive system Part 2

Add Motor Carriage

Next we inserted the motor carriage into the bottom of the main square fastening it down with the 4 x m5x65mm bolts.

Add M8 Bolts

Insert 2 x M8x90mm bolts from the inside outward through the bearings on the long ends of the main square piece.

Ensure that the bolt heads/ends are on the inside and the threads are facing outside of the main square.

Insert motors into roller mounts

Next we insert the two 165rpm planetary motors into the roll motor mounts.

                

NOTE: These mounts work as eccentric spacers in that one side is wider than the other, as you turn the unit with the motor inside, it can align tighten the belt connection.

The motor ends where the servo arm is pushes outwards, the inside of the mount should hit the larger portion of the planetary motor body and prevent it from going further.  This mount should be snug enough around the motor.

Add motor mounts to Motor Carriage

Insert the motor mount and motor into the motor carriage, ensuring that the two motors ends are facing inwards of the assembly while the 84rpm motor which handles the head tilt is facing the opposite direction.

Screenshot of main drive motors installed in motor carriage, unlick the photo, turn the motor mounts so that the open ends are facing downwards (loose) so we can easily install the belt later on.

The head rotation servo does not have a roll motor mount and inserts directly into the motor carriage.

The completed assembly should look like this at this point.  Need to now tighten down and lock in the motors to the carriage

Tighten down Motor Carriage

Add m5 nuts to the slots located on the sides of the motor carriage.  These will allow the m5 bolts to be tighten down holding the motors in place firmly.

Insert 3 x m5 nuts into each side of the motor carriage, slowing pushing them in to align with their respective bolts… this is not easy.

Insert two m5x20mm bolts to tighten down the assembly over the motors.

Adding the Rods and Axles

Cut the 12mm rod to 19” long using a cutting wheel on a dremmel or rotary tool of choice.

NOTE: Verify and measure the inner diameter of the sphere frame and verify its length between sides.  Ensure there is slack as getting it snug from side to side is not needed.

Cut the 8mm threaded rod which is used to connect to the magnet assembly to 8” in length.

NOTE: this too can be more or less, we will adjust its height using locking nuts once installed on the head control arm.

Cut the smooth 6mm rod to 6” which will then be coupled from the motor at the bottom of the head arm and run through the assembly with gears at the end.

Overview of Lengths:

• 12mm = 19”
• 8mm= 8"
• 6mm= 6"

Assembly Day 1: The drive system

Work began on taking all the printed parts and assembling them.

Starting with the square block main chassis, added 4 x 12mm bearings and 4 x 8mm bearings.

Above is the main square chassis, bearings and motor holder assembly.

Getting the bearings into the square was tough.. the holes were a little too tight

As you can see the chassis started to crack... I added some weld-on 16 to strengthen the cracks.

used the clamps to hold the assembly together while it dried

After dried - verified strength.... looks great

Next we take the motor holder and align the wider arm to the same side where its wider on the 8mm bearing side.

You will see that the wider leg matches to the wider side of the square.

Bolt down the assemblies using M5 70mm bolts.

Next we insert 2x m5 bolts ends facing inward through the 8mm bearings.

Next we need to add these motor sleeves to the 2 x 165rpm planetary motors.

They slip over the top of the drive and push down against the rim of the larger portion of the motor.

We insert the motor plus sleeve into the bottom holes.

Motor doesn't quite fit perfectly here...

This is out too far... will need to end up pushing the motor and sleeve in flush.

added the 2nd motor to its sleeve

Both motors are now installed they will need to be pushed in flush.

Now adding the 85rpm planetary motor to the last hole mount

This too will need to be pushed out more to align with the bottom motors once they are made flush.

Here is the other view of the motors.

A view of the assembly

We need to insert these m5 nuts into respective slots to add bolts to tighten down the lower motor mounts to hold those motors in place.

Here

and here

Completed assembly

pushing the motors in flush as well as the upper motor.

Here is another view of the motors installed.  These handle the axle drive itself while the upper motor is for the head tilt in front to back.

The Frame for version 2

Cary Christie sphere

I needed a open frame to work on the droid with, given the confinements of the hub solution I presently have, Cary's was a clear choice.

To assemble the sphere, you're going to need to order some parts. The part listing below uses McMaster-Carr links.

Hardware needed to assemble (as from the club website)

Item	Qty
Brass Heat Set Inserts (M3x.5)	24
Stainless Lock Nuts 3MM	60
Stainless Low Profile Socket Head Cap Screw (M3x.7)	24
Stainless Socket Head Cap Screw (3MM x 35MM)	65
Stainless Washers 3MM	60

Print Settings used

Average print time is 10-14 hours for 3 pieces, 24 total pieces.
I used a total of 3 rolls of filament.
I went ahead and sped up the printing using the following settings:

• 5 shells (perimeters), 3 top and 3 bottom
• .3mm layer height
• 20% infill
• PLA was printed at 210c
• Filament type: Inland 1.75 PLA white.

The drive system for version 2

After my issues with working on the "hamster drive" system that currently isn't working, I decided for version 2 to move back to the Axle Drive system.

Joe's Drive System for rolling droids

Looked to be a low cost solid solution... I reached out to him to see if I could begin beta testing the drive system.

Printing the Parts

This was a long process, luckily I had a little help from the 3 working printers I have built over the past year :)

Many pieces took well over 10+ hours each
I boxed them all up and began work on the Cary sphere (frame) pieces.

Why a version 2

BB8 was a big hit at Destiny for the premier of Rogue One...

BUT

I followed James Bruton's design and took some shortcuts which cost some damage to the infrastructure.  When I made the custom skins etc... it sealed my doom!

you can check out the history of Version 1 here: http://jimmyzsbb8.blogspot.com/

So just as I did for R2... version 2 began.

And what a journey...